This history was prepared circa 1967 by the Improvement Association and is distributed here with the authorization of the Improvement Association. Our thanks.
Note: Document prepared by OCR scanning, some errors may have resulted.
PREPARED BY LA HABRA HEIGHTS IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION, INC. FROM HEIGHTS LIFE MATERIAL AND RECORDINGS OF INTERVIEWS WITH PIONEER RESIDENTS.
1839 - LA HABRA RANCHO
La Habra Heights and most of the city of La Habra lie within the La Habra Rancho, a grant which Marina Roldan received from Mexico, October 22, 1839. He sold to Andres Pico, a brother of Pio Pico, Shaped like a wedge of pie, pointed south, La Habra Rancho was partly in Orange County. La Habra means a low pass in the mountains.
The Picos lost La Habra Rancho to Don Abel Sterns, who owned a whole collection of Ranchos, including La Habra, Los Coyotes, San Juan Colon de Santa Ana, Las Bolsas y Paredes, La Bolsa Chico, Jurupa and La Sierra. He was a great cattle baron and was known as the richest man in California.
A great drought in 1861 ruined Sterns and the lands went to San Francisco capitalists. The new owners organized the Los Angeles - San Bernardino Lands Company and put Sterns Ranchos on the market at prices ranging from $2 to $10 per acre. Many of the purchasers were Basque sheep growers from the Pyrenees mountains.
A man named Rimpeou is said to have brought the first sheep to La Habra, but Domingo Bastanchury built the first permanent home. He and Jose Sansinena were partners until 1889 when Sansinena acquired a 5000 acre sheep ranch that included most of La Habra city and La Habra Heights. His home was located at about 1300 Hacienda Blvd. When Orange County was partitioned from Los Angeles County, in 1899, the line ran near his home.
A stock and sheep man Jose Sonsinena, soon made use of his new hill land and in time his entire flock of sheep ran as high as 15,000 animals. His cattle numbered as high as 300 The country club valley was rich in pasturage and was fenced off, while the higher land was used for winter and spring grazing.
Jose Sansinena died in 1896. Later his widow married Ysidora Eseverri. Deceased in later years this couple is survived by Antoinette Sansinena Bills, Madaleno Sansinena Lindauer, Marion Sansinena and Josephene Eseverri Lindouer. Three of these ladies now live in a spacious home at 185 West Villa Rita Dr. two blocks from the original Sansinena home.
In 1900 Mrs. Sansinena decided to sell 3500 acres to W. J. Hole. This 3500 acres was the area later to become the Heights, it was sold at about $15 per acre.
Roads in the Heights were nothing but rutted and bumpy dirt wagon tracks. What was later to be Hacienda Boulevard was nothing more and extended only to the ranch house. Another wagon track roughly followed the present East and West roads and Fullerton road which, by the way, skirted the edge of a quarter-mile-long lake near East road. The lake was a hunter's paradise. Not only did it have duck in a variety, but also mountain lions and others of the cat family, in and around its overgrown edges. Hacienda Blvd. now goes over the grade, but in the past it was a one-way saddle horse trail, steep and narrow. Pete Arroues on 1001 East Road, who came to La Habra Heights in 1911 and farmed in the country club valley, tells how he helped Eseverri build Hacienda Road Up to the ranch house. The road was so bad his hay wagons could not get through. He graded the road with equipment borrowed from La Habra on Sundays when it was not in use. He got the Fullerton Oil Co. and the Union Oil Company to donate the heavy road oil. Mr. Hole leased the land to a man named Toussou, for sheep grazing purposes. Around 1904 he sold the oil rights to Rudisill, who in turn transferred them to the Union Oil Company.
EDWIN G. HART VISION FOR LA HABRA HEIGHTS
In 1919 Hole sold the land to Edwin G. Hart, a developer who had an amazing vision for the future of the 3500 acres to be known from then on as La Habra Heights. His earlier experiences in Old Mexico and in the development of North Whittier Heights led him to believe that these beautiful frost free hills could evolve into a remarkable avocado growing belt. His grand plan appeared to visualize all of the Heights divided info five acre or larger parcels planted to fine avocado groves, well kept and profitable to all his neighbors. Perhaps he visualized also that these rugged, naturally beautiful hills overlooking the surrounding country and the ocean in the distance would attract business men and prominent people from many places to come here and ultimately convert the Heights from avocados to an area of beautiful country estates.
1921 - WATER REACHES THE HEIGHTS
Such a tremendous development required Water, for the present and the future. Water rights finally were purchased along the San Gabriel River, but only after protracted negotiations and legal controversies. Four water companies of necessity were formed, the La Mirada Mutual, the La Habra Highland Mutual, the La Habra Heights Mutual, and the Hillside Distribution company, the later being the operating company for the others, The results of time in the development of the Heights has allowed simplification in the delivery of water to the land, so that only the La Habra Heights Mutual Water Comany now exists. The La Habra Heights Mutual Water Company was incorporated in 1919 and stock was gradually sold to the property owners in the Heights. In 1948 stock shares were made appertinent to the land and all acreage in the Heights shared in the water company ownership. Water reached the Heights in quantity in 1921 when the reservoir at Hacienda and East Road was completed and as the distribution system crawled upward over the hills, so did the blanket of green groves. Edwin G. Hart was president of the Water company from 1919 to 1939. His successors have been H. B. Griswold, P. W. Allen, Ernest Mason, Walter Beck, Fred Nelson, Frank Cressy, David Field and John Hart.
AVOCADOS PREDOMINATE
In order to get started and finance the Water Company, Hart let several large parcels to developers. R. L. Reynolds bought 307 acres west of Hacienda which became known as Subtropic Farms. Other large parcels went to Switzer syndicate, E. 0. White and Peter Weisel on Fullerton Road and the Golf course on East Road. Hart also started marketing 5 acre and larger parcels in many cases with contracts to put in and develop avocados. Some of the early purchasers of avocado land were Clyde Wilcox, Price and Bishop, Wm. Holloway, G. W. Beck, Dr. H. B. Stone-brook, H. B. Griswold and F. D. HaIm. Lou Davenport had a fine grove of avocados on Popanoe Road.
Working with Hart in this huge program were his business managers, first T. U. Barber and Charles Getchel and later P. W. Allen and Ernest Mason, and his field superintendents Albert Wright and Frank HaIm in the 1920's and Cecil Knowlton in the 1930's and 1940's Getchel. Haim and Knowlton acquired property in the Heights and became widely known far their contributions to the Heights community.
During the 1920's, the peak of development, hundreds of men were employed, including engineering crews, mule skinners, pipe line men, nursery men and laborers building roads and pipe lines, contouring the hills and planting avocados. The present Cecil Knowlton property an East Road was the location of the field offices and the camp housing the construction crews. During the slack work seasons, the La Habra Heights company work crews planted thousands of flowering eucalyptus, blue gum and acacia trees in clusters throughout the Heights. Today these trees stand high above the orchards and add much to the beauty of this area.
Agriculture in the early days was not limited to avocados. Gene Barley and Lauren Meod operated nurseries an East Road. Flowers were grown on the slopes above the county line. Subtropic Farms raised vegetables such as rhubarb, cucumbers, tomatoes and string beans. Oranges and lemons were planted in the valley lands. At one time about 40 acres were in citron production. Hart had a citron packing plant of East Road and Hacienda. An ostrich farm was located above the county line on Citrus Street.
However, avocado growing became the dominant agricultural pursuit in the Heights. Their start dates back to George W. Beck who planted avocados along Cypress Street in 1910. Later he bought property from Hart on Kashlan and planted more avocados. His son, Walter Beck, became one of the foremost authorities on avocado culture. The Heights is indebted to the Beck family not only for their pioneer work in avocados but also for their fine cooperation in Heights community affairs. Many new avocado varieties were originated here including the Hass developed by R. G. Hass. The original tree is still growing on his property on West Road. Roads through out the Heights were named for avocado varieties such as Chota, Dorothea, Popenoe, Sharpless, Ganter, Benick, Kashlan, Moyapan, Nabal, Panchay and Kanola. Ahuacate road of course means avocado - in Spanish this means water hag. Avocados in those days sold for 50¢/# and more.
A survey in 1930 showed that there were 1,292 acres of avocado orchards, 282 acres of orange, lemon and citron orchards, 43 acres of miscellaneous plantings like persimmons, cherimoyas, passion fruit, papayas, sapotes, bulbs, flowers, and avocado and citrus nursery stock or a total of 1,617 developed acres. At that time also there were 95 homes some costing as much as $100,000.00.
These "far out' pioneer residents boasted of one very special convenience. Nixon's grocery store on Whittier Blvd. provided delivery service to La Habra Heights and on some occasions the teenage future Vice President of the United States helped deliver the groceries.
1920 - HACIENDA GOLF CLUB
Hacienda Golf Club was one of the earliest arrivals in the Heights. Alphonso Bell, a land owner at Santa Fe Springs and a lover of sports, persuaded businessmen in Whittier, Anaheim and Fullerton to start a golf club. They intended to purchase the Baker Ranch in Santa Fe Springs and to name the new course the Twin City Golf Club. However, in 1920 oil was found on the bell property and the Baker property also went to oil developers. Hart persuaded the golf enthusiasts to buy 150 acres in the central valley area of the Heights. After starting the Hacienda Golf Club, Bell became a leader in the fabulous Bel-Air development, which naturally included the Bel-Air Country Club.
Starting with a barn near the present lakes as a club house and nine holes on the West end, the club has grown to a beautiful 18 hole course with a spacious Spanish style club house. It is now one of the oldest and most picturesque golf clubs in Southern California.
Surrounded by the naturally beautiful tree studded hills, this valley setting of green fairways, water displays, white sand traps and colorful slopes fills out a scenic wonder spot that rivals the story book pictures of Switzerland. Besides its contribution to beauty, the club provides remarkable meeting and recreational facilities, including golf, swimming, dining and dancing. It has always cooperated in the aims and aspirations of the Heights' community.
SECOND BEVERLY HILLS
Not far behind the spread of avocado groves over the hills a remarkable residential development was shaping up. Discerning people from the metropolitan area and widely divergent locations were selecting the view sites in this beautiful rural area for their home settings. Some magnificent homes were built in the Heights in the late 1920's and early 1930's such as the Herman Smith and Joy Richart homes an West road, the B. F. Axelson, Alden Kerfoot and Dema Harshbarger homes on Avocado Crest, the Weisel and Beckwith homes on Fullerton road, the Harshton home on Kanola, and the E. G. Hart, Laura Scudder and Allen homes on Reposado. Dr. Swan's home an East Rd. was also a show place. All of these home owners may well be termed celebrities. Herman Smith, founder of the Smith Industries International, Inc. is known throughout the oil industry. Dema Harshbarger spearheaded NBC shows such as the Fred Allen show and later became press agent for Hedda Hopper. Laura Scudder we all know as the potato chip queen. Other celebrities who came to the Heights include Kirby Page the author, Frank Church, the fight promoter who backed Fidel La Barba, Jack Halt, the Western film star, and Todd Margan, the fighter.
Not all of the homes were mansions and not all of the people were celebrities. Homes ranged from summer cottages and modest farm houses to dreamlike structures and spectacular view sites. Nearly all homes were individually designed. Many were hidden in the irregular tree covered terrain and reached only by private roads.
The people who came to La Habra Heights all displayed one strong characteristic; they wanted space and privacy and a horizon of trees and mountains and green valleys in contrast with crowded suburban tracts and city streets.
A 1926 Edwin G. Hart real estate brochure on La Habra Heights stated, "The Second Beverly Hills has started already it is dotted with numerous suburban homes of the very finest type.'' Dema Harshbarger, originally from Chicago, stated that she came to the Heights after reading a National Geographic article citing the three most beautiful living spots in the world as La Habra Heights and locations in Italy and Africa.
It is small wonder that La Habra Heights grew in stature as a fine residential community. By 1939 about 2000 of the original 3500 acres owned by the Hart people had been divided into groves and spacious home parcels owned by about 1800 residents from all parts of the United States. In December 1939, Edwin G. Hart the guiding force in this remarkable community was struck by an automobile and killed. Still living in the Heights are his wife Adelaide and son John C. Hart. Earlier in 1939 Edwin G. Hart formulated plans for community cooperation to assure orderly development of the Heights and perpetuate the wonderful rural image that had been his dream for 30 years.
COMMUNITY COOPERATION
1939 - The La Habra Heights Improvement Association
Early in 1939, Edwin G. Hart, Art Sucksdorf, Glen Annabel, Alex Morrison, and H. B. Griswold met at the Dinner Bell Restaurant an Whittier Blvd. for the purpose of reorganizing the La Habra Heights Improvement Association. An earlier organization in 1932 had became inactive. After the Dinner Bell meeting Griswold called a general meeting at the Hacienda Golf Club which set up the object and the Construction of the present association. The object; as stated at the start, remains unchanged, "To encourage and promote the development of the Heights as a rural residential area.'' Fred Whitman, now deceased, was the first president. The roster of presidents from 1939 to date includes Herbert Deightan, 1940; Hazel Charlton, 1941; Sam Eastman, 1942; Don Newton, 1943; Wilber Derthick (deceased) 1944; Young Wihaite, 1945; William Corlsan (deceased), 1946; Grant Van Valin (deceased) 1947; Edgar Wileman, 1948- Wilbur Jadden, 1949; Harvey Stonehouse, 1950; Leonard Matson, (Deceased) 1951; Wm. W. Stephens, 1952; Margaret Guan, 1953; Joseph Harmon, 1954; David Herlihy, 1955; Fred Bolles deceased), 1956; Tom Conlon 1957; Wm. Yesser, 1958; Arthur Christie, 1959-61; Wm. Newsome, 1962; Carl Randolph, 1963; James Eastman, 1964; William Hoffmann, 1965; John Beau, 1966 and Walter Dayhuff, 1967.
This organization has a remarkable record of accomplishment. It has worked constantly for agricultural betterment, improved roads and roadside planting of bougainvillea, oleander, and other colorful shrubs. It has distributed thousands of trees to maintain the green belt character of the area.
It played an active role in developing an oil well drilling program, that fitted in with fine residential development. It worked with the Regional Planning Commission in securing RA-1 zoning in 1949 and has successfully supported this highly beneficial ordinance in succeeding years.
Its quarterly meetings have provided a forum for airing problems and promoting cooperation and purpose and good social relations in the community. It has cooperated with the county organizations, such as the Board of Supervisors, the Planning Commission and the Road Department, and has earned the respect of these organizations. It has sponsored boy scout activities in the Heights. The Heights Life, a quarterly publication to all Heights residents, has kept the community informed of activities of special interest. The association has a remarkable record of community cooperation and purpose and has done well in carrying out the object set forth in the 1939 meeting at the Dinner Bell Restaurant.
1942 - VOLUNTEER FIRE DEPARTMENT
Strong Community Cooperation is the byword again in the amazing growth and success of the La Habra Heights Volunteer Fire Department, Inc. Prior to 1942 the closest fire station was at San Dimas. The method of fighting fires was far Cecil Knowlton to get a crew with water buckets and wet sacks to beat back the fire until San Dimas equipment arrived. In 1939 a disastrous fire started above Reposado and Hacienda and swept eastward almost to Fullerton Rd.
In the spring of 1942, Clement F. Levins became the "Father" of the fire department, by suggesting to his friends, Ernest Sherwood, Howard Cooper and Art Sucksdarf, that fire protection was the number one need in the Heights. This small group of men purchased a "nurse" rig from Mr. Cooper and set out to collect funds from their neighbors to pay for it. The fire truck was kept at the ranch of Cecil Knowlton on Fast Road.
On October 8, 1942, the department was incorporated. Acting directors were 0. D. Belanger, Art Sucksdorf, Fire Chief, Sam Eastman, Young Wilhite, Larry Marsh and Mr. Levins. With Mr. Wilhite as master of ceremonies, the group held a fund raising campaign in 1945 and raised over $3,000 from their neighbors. As a result of this a Seagrave fire truck was purchased.
As the department grew, the board authorized the installation of many fire hydrants. In 1946 they purchased a new International Army fire truck that carries 400 gallons of Water. A new four wheel drive Jeep was purchased in 1947 and specially designed equipment was installed by Fire Chief Edgar Trefry. It carries 160 gallons and pumps at 250 pounds pressure. This unit proved so adaptable to Heights requirements that four additional units were added. The next addition was the big 3,000 gallon tanker, used to fill equipment on the fire line, This is often called the traveling fire hydrant. This tanker was donated by the Union Oil Company. Recently, when one of the Jeeps was wrecked, the department added the big 2-1/2 tan Ford pumper, a modern city type truck. In 1949 resuscitator life saving equipment was added, which has since been responsible for saving four lives. Another recent addition is the short wave radio communications system.
Today, with this equipment stationed strategically about the Heights and a staff of 35 firemen and 6 dispatchers, this community is provided with extraordinary fire protection. The voluntary donation for this remarkable service amounts to about $15 per residence, whereas county district protection would cost about $60 per residence. Also, as a result of the record of remarkably small fire loss in the Heights, we now have a rate for fire insurance in our area, which is 1/2 of its former rate.
A roster of the fire chiefs since 1942 includes-. Cecil Knowlton, F. C. Trefry, (deceased), Fred Bolles, (deceased), Millard Schneller, Robert Hartsock, Ed Parsons. It is worthy of mention that Art Sucksdorf, the original fire chief, has served as a volunteer fireman far 25 years. The Heights' residents are proud and highly appreciative of this outstanding community enterprise and the individual effort of these neighbors who have given so much to the community.
1949 - ZONING TAILORED FOR THE HEIGHTS
Conversion to RA-1 Zoning in 1949 is another out-standing example of community cooperation and purpose.
During the 40's, there were some signs of deterioration in the Heights. One tract of bottom land, near Encanada, was subdivided into four lots per acre. Another parcel on Avocado Crest, was being cut into approximately 1/2 acre lots. Some commercial chicken ranches and riding stables became an annoyance in this fine residential community. Also, uncontrolled oil well drilling became a prospect in the Heights.
To combat this trend the Heights' Association, under President Wilbur Jodden, sought the cooperation of the County Regional Planning Commission, in working out zoning revisions, that would insure the orderly and proper course of development in the future.
The association survey showed 81.8% of the residents favoring a minimum land area of one acre and the commission's study showed that nearly 80% of the parcels were approximately that size. The dual efforts of the Association and the Planning Commission resulted in amending the official zoning plan of La Habra Heights by ordinance No.5279 (3/1/49) with RA-I zoning (Residential Agriculture 1 acre required]. The ordinance also limited the types of commercial agriculture and prohibited roadside stands and signs of any description whatsoever.
This zoning ordinance is unique far La Habra Heights. The 1 acre minimum land requirement recognizes the limited building area on the steep hillsides, and the limited capacity of the scenic winding roads. Moreover, the people who chose this area far home sites appreciate the rural atmosphere and seclusion afforded by spacious living parcels. If stopped the commercial chicken raising and the crowded row house subdivisions, and perpetuated the beautiful rural residential character of the area. Since its adoption there has been no expansion of chicken raising and subdivisions have been limited to a small number of fine homes in buffer areas, near the county line, The trend has continued only toward fine residential development.
The La Habra Heights' residents are very grateful to the Planning commission and the 1949 Heights zoning committee for their advanced thinking and effort in securing this highly appropriate zoning regulation for this area. Following is the 1949 Zoning committee roster.' Gordon Ryland, General Chairman, John C. Hart, Walter Beck, Jack Knomon, Robert ~"c\\e~~, ~~vrnond S'er~'ng, ~. ~. 'A~e'~se~ and Sam Eastman. The anxiety of Heights residents to maintain present zoning has been reflected in two attempts to incorporate the Heights as a common law city. Both attempts were blocked because the extra layer of taxes would place an undue burden on the Union Oil Company and on agricultural and undeveloped land holdings. The Heights Improvement association is however committed to strong support of the present zoning ordinance
1948 - URBAN OIL FIELD GOES INTO HIDING
In 1904 Union Oil Company purchased the oil rights of the lands of Rancho La Habra from Mr. Rudisill. From time to time they drilled without much success. In addition to finding little oil they encountered apposition from certain residents in the Heights who opposed the drilling.
About 1940 Union outlined a final program to prove up the Heights. To secure the good will and cooperation of the residents Union held a mass meeting at the Lowell School and offered community leases in the A and B zones above and below the fault line with 10% oil payments. Union proposed to carry out the operations in a manner not detrimental to the residential community, with numerous wells drilled from a single location by whip stocking, rigs encased in plastic coverings and silent pumping units. The 1940 agreements also provided that if oil was not found in certain areas Union could elect to quit claim the rights back to the surface owners. In such cases these owners were no longer bound by the agreements.
Union drilled a number of wells under the 1940 agreement without much success and quit claimed considerable land back to the surface owners. However, in 1948 they struck good oil production in Sansinena #15 well. Union and others moved quickly to lease the quit claimed properties and unrestricted drilling again became a threat in the Heights. To control this the Heights Association farmed on al well drilling committee which reviewed all zoning exceptions and set up requirements for control of drilling operations.
With this rather hectic background and the successful completion of several wells the Heights resistance to oil development faded rapidly and most of the residents signed up under the Union Oil Company agreements. Oil operation was expanded to other sites and Union evolved an oil operation in the Heights that is nationally recognized as an example of compatible oil well drilling. To reduce truck traffic an oil line was run from the Stewart Station in Brea to the Heights. A 1957 article in the Los Angeles Times states, This is an oil field? Yes, one of the major oil fields in California, producing nearly 11,000 barrels a day from 150 wells, and there isn't an oil well in sight."
The financial impact of the operation has been important in the orderly development of the Heights. Property and oil reserve tax assessments are such that Union Oil Company pays nearly 30 percent of the county tax burden. Over the years, oil production payments to the Heights' residents have amounted to many millions of dollars. This supplemental income has been one of the factors that has enabled them to retain their agricultural holdings. Certainly it is partially responsible for our quiet rural atmosphere, in contrast to the extensive subdivisions that h~ve taken place in similar areas.
Union Oil Company has been very helpful in community efforts, particularly in fire prevention. Donations to the volunteer fire department include the 3,000 gallon tanker and a generous portion of the costs of the new 2V2 ton Ford pumper. Thus, the hidden oil field and its possessor- Union Oil Company have been good neighbors to this fine rural community.
HORSE POPULATION EXPLOSION
From the earliest days horses and horsemanship have been an important facet of rural life in the Heights. The horse population has reached a total of about 600 and many miles of interesting riding trails traverse the hills and valleys. Each day we see the proud possessors of these animals, our young men and young women and the seniors, riding the trails, training in the rings or grooming the lucky animals and polishing the saddles and equipment.
Many of the owners are members of the Highland Riders. This community minded group has practice rings at the top of the sand quarry on Cypress Street and at the end of Las Palomas Rd. They have three horse shows a year geared to the junior horsemen. There are also contests including parade participation, trail rides and a queen contest based on riding ability. This year Rod Kelley, age 17, on Subtropic Dr., won the title of National Stock Equitation Rider. At this time the most important goal of the Highland Riders is to interconnect and improve the various trails in the Heights thus increasing the safety and the pleasure of this wonderful sport.
1967 - THE HEIGHTS TODAY
The gradual change in the image of La Habra Heights as an avocado producing area to one of residential estate character, has continued without interruption. In 1967 the Heights has about 700 homes on one-acre parcels, 450 homes on larger than one-acre parcels and 150 homes on parcels smaller than one-acre. Nearly all of these are individually designed to blend with the scenic hillside terrain. This past year fifty new homes have been built in the Heights on one-acre or larger parcels, nearly all showing the country estate trend.
Today's image and background is advertised in a recent real estate brochure as follows.' "The Beautiful Hills and Valleys of La Habra Heights - orchard covered 4,000 acre family community, formed about 1920 by Edwin G. Hart - is blessed with informality thoroughly enjoyed by its nearly 3000 population. Other features are many; ocean-tempered mild climate, many direction views from points as high as 1400 feet above sea level, strongly protective community organization, good sufficiency of water, country estate zoning generally calling for a minimum of one acre and single family homes, a fine private golf club with 150 acres of beautiful challenging fairways, 37 miles of scenic winding roads, many miles of riding trails, good schools, shopping centers close by, 45 minutes driving time to beaches, mountains or downtown Los Angeles La Habra Heights, the Land of a Thousand Views."
Without a doubt, this rural and secluded community has become one of the most beautiful and desirable home site areas in Los Angeles County. Its natural beauty at the start provided an ideal setting for this, but great credit must go to those remarkably individualistic people who chose this area far their homes and developed and nurtured this community until it is unsurpassed in charm and beauty and home-like atmosphere. If they continue to work together and beautify their own properties, they can perpetuate this wonderful image.